Circular knit stocking and method of making same



Patented Feb. 2, 1954 UNITED srrss ATLENT OFFICE CIRCULAR KNIT STOCKING AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Application October 6, 1949, Serial No. 119,953

14 Claims.

This invention relates to a circular knit stocking and a method of making saine, and more particularly to a patterned stocking having a better-fitting instep and heel. In circular knit hosiery the pocket for the heel is formed by inserting a segment of fabric between the leg and foot on the sole side of the stocking. The usual fabric for this purpose is a narrowed and widened heel pocket with a double-sided suture between the two segments. By a double-sided suture is meant one in which the successive end stitches on each side come from different courses of the fabric and are interknit to form the suture. Stockings made in this manner fit the foot in an uneven manner. There is surplus fabric on the instep side and an area of strain on each side of the stocking at the inner ends of the heel pocket. I have found how to shape a stocking by inserting extra fabric so as to produce a stocking which is improved not only as to fit 'out which also extends any diagonal pattern of which the leg may be made. This better-fitting construction is made in instances where at least part of the leg is knit reciprocatorily. According to my present invention there is provided a tapered insert which gives extra fabric all the way from the instep of the stocking to the bottom of the sole. I call my stocking a diamond instep stocking. The instep part of the insert is shaped like a wedge and is joined integrally on one side with adjacent fabric on the instep side of the stocking. It shapes the instep side of the stocking by allowing for the turning of the foot upwardly at an angle relatively to the leg. I also provide a gusset on the sole side of the stocking as part of this tapered insert. This gusset lengthens the sole relatively to the instep and matches the instep wedge of fabric to make a better-fitting stocking. I have found that such an improvement is particularly useful in a stocking having a leg design of diagonal sections knit of yarns of different colors. The sections are generally four-sided, i. e., diamondshaped intertting sections. Mens socks containing such patterns are known as handfashioned diamond socks. The sections of the design are knit successively and reciprocatorily. They are joined together by sutures made as the knitting progresses. One patent showing such a design is my U. S. Patent No. 2,260,650, dated Oct. 28, 1941, for Hosiery and Method of Manufacture.

In the drawings:

Figure I is a view in side elevation of a preferred form of a diagonal diamond-design circular knit stocking made in accordance with my invention; while Figure II is a similar view of a modified form of my invention in which one entire four-sided i'igure of the diamond design on each side of the stocking is below the direct instep line.

I will first describe the preferred embodiment of Fig. I. The stocking has the usual top l, a leg designated generally by the numeral 2, an instep 3, a toe 4, a sole 5 and a heel generally indicated by the reference character 6. The heel comprises the usual narrowed and widened segments l and 8 joined together by a double-sided suture 9. It will be understood that extra segments may be added or other changes made in the heel without departing from my invention, The outer or heel end of the heel suture on each side of the stocking is designated by the letter A, and the inner end by the letter B. The stocking has a diagonal or diamond design made of staggered four-sided sections of fabric. They are knit reciprocatorily of yarns of different colors and joined together by suture lines.

Such a construction is customarily made on circular machinery by knitting the diagonal design sections or diamonds in succession by reciprocatory knitting. When making such stockings it is necessary to knit the patterned leg by hand manipulation of the machine. This is a comparatively slow and expensive process. Hand manipulation is used t0 make as little of the stocking as possible. For this reason, as soon as the leg has been knit, the heel, foot and toe are knit by automatic operation of the machine. The pattern in the leg therefore did not extend into the foot heretofore.

To make my stocking of Fig. I, after the top I is made the diamond Ill at the top front of the stocking is made by reciprocatory knitting. To do this half the needles on the heel side are thrown out of action and knitting proceeds reciprocatorily on the front half. This active group of needles is gradually narrowed to produce the tapered section Il). When this section has been completed, all needles are out of action. Knitting on one of the diagonal sections H, located. diagonally just below the section i5), is then begun on about one-quarter of the needles. As the knitting progresses, needles are removed on one side of the section and added on the other side to the point on the front of the stocking at the bottom of section I0. Beginning at this point, needles are narrowed on both sides untilV the lowest point I2 of the section Il is reached.

j fore are narrowedfedges the wedge I8 on one' side'` of thev stocking, the

The similar section II on the other side of the hose is then made in the same way, after which knitting is commenced at the top point of the diamond-shaped section I4 at the rear of the stocking. In making section I4, needles are added on each side until the widest part of the section at point I6 is-"reached, and then they are removed progressively oneach side until the point I TI to be connected to the heel pocket is reached. The diamond-shaped section I3.- in the front of the stocking below section I0 and joining sections II is then' knit in:` asimilar manner. preferably knit of a yarn oiv al dierent. color. The effect of this manner of knitting istopruduce a pattern with sharply-dened' edges, Vthe general effect of the pattern being diagonal and..

diamond-shaped.

The next section to be knit after. I3 and it: is the section .on eachi side which I have identified in Fig. l= ofthe'drawings:byA the numbers I5, I8. It includes part of my newinsertin-.addition to part of th'eleg.'` It will be observed that section I3 terminates atlther front of the instepat aA point D-opposite-the heel. line from this point-D' to the point IE5v at the inner end of the heelwhatever the type of heel-will normally be adirect extensionv of the heel suture; I: callfthis lineBD=the direct instep line. Thisand the heel line on the back Where the heel begins together represent the line' normally reached: by knitting of the leg before starting the heel. When beginning the leg part I5 of the new section the stitches on the needles on eachi sidel off the machine run` from thepoint Dthrough therpoint I2- on section I'I tothe point: I6iat1 thetop of the'section and down again to thepointV FI at thebottozn of the section lli. At: thispoint' the-sectionwill be attached tothe back ofV the upper or' narrowed' segmentr 7: of the'heel. The leg part I5 ofthe section; is knit by reciprocationbeginning at the upperpoini;` Iand widening out in both directions. The knitting reaches the-points I.',

B and'D in the same course. This completes the leg part' I5 of the section I5,.IB.

A It will be observed.' that heretoforet'he knitting .of patterned` fabric', has ordinarily stopped on this'direct'instepline BD and vheelV line B, I 1, in order to permit the restv ofi the' stocking to be knitautomatically. Not'only does this cause the pattern to end on a line above the. t'op'of the ordinary low shoe, leaving/an' ugly break in appearance, but thebreak isf emphasized by the fact that' the patterned section being knit lacks its downwardly-directed"point at the instep line. Accordingl to my invention thisf patterned section I5, IB is provided Withitsldesired pointand below the direct` instep line, breaking up the abrupt ending in thepattern. This is done'before the making of the heel.

To iinish the entire section I5, I8', reciprocatory knitting is continued frornpoint-Bfto point D on one side of the' stocking to: make' the triangle or wedge of'fabric i8; The knitting is narrowed one needle per course along the instep suture CD and one needle every two courses along the wedge suture BC until the triangle is completed at al downwardly-directed point C.V The edges of the triangle alongv the lines-BC and CD' therewedge on'the other sideisfknitiini a corresponding: manner. This; giyes azrextension ofi the leg pattern, projecting the pattern below the direct As already indicated, each section is A straight After completion of tionsY of making' the heel.

instep line to a point which is normally hidden by the low shoe. This is achieved without in any Way marring the continuity of the fabric at the instep line. While this triangle or Wedge is knit integrally with the instep fabric of the leg, it is joined to the instep fabric of the foot by a single-sided suture. The latter is much less objectionable in4 appearance than having a double-sided suture extending directly to the front of the instep, and its location is such as to enhance the diamond pattern eiiect. Furthermore, it.will.be atleast partially hidden by the wearers shoe. By having a point of the wedge located at therfiont D'of; the instep, an eXtra piece of taperedA fabricY is inserted on the instep side of the stocking| which provides the necessary geometricalradditionito allow for an adequate turning of the foot with relation to the leg. As shown in Fig. I, the juncture line CD between the triangular wedge of fabric I8 and the instep side of the foot isa single-sided suture; The juncture line BC ruiming from the inner end ofr the heelsuture A'Bito the inner end C ofthe singlesidedsuture line is a double-sided'suture.

This suture line' joins the wedge to a gusset I. This gusset, extendingy around the sole `side of` the stockingl adjacent. the forward edge of the widened heel segment 8, connects the two wedges I8A andA completes the tapered insert characteristic of my invention; It is knit in a reciprocatory manner, preferably'containing the same number of courses as are found in the Wedges I8 .on the double suture lines BC connecting it to the twowedges. Therefore the r" last coursev of the gusset I9 passes from point C oni each side of the stocking through a point E at' the sole whichiis the'same number of courses from the'heel'as'point' C. This gusset IS is knit after'the usual narrowing'v and widening opera- O'f course, if the heel contains additionalv gussets other than the tapered gussetY of`my invention, they will be made before the gusset I It will be seen that my tapered insert is bounded on ea'ch side* of the stocking'by pointsB, D, C, E'and the forward edgel of? the heel. The juncture between the widened` segment '8 of the heel and my gusset I9 Vwill be represented only by whatever change of yarn may be desired, as this novel gusset is knit iii-integral succession to the segment 8.

In the4 construction. of Fig. I, the reciprocatory knitting of' the gusset Iii commences on the same number of needles'that were employed in knitting the last` course of the heel segment. Needles may be added' in any desired manner as the doublei-side'd suture BC is formed. I nd it preferable. to add needles during reciprocatory knitting of the gusset i9 at a rate compleniental to the rate of narrowing during the making of 60' the wedge I8. When the gusset has been complet'ed, the machine immediately begins rotary knitting. The foot is knit in integral succession to the gusset, the iirst course also completing the single-sided sutures CD on the instep side of' the stocking. The sole 5, the instep 3 and the toelare'all knit in any ofthe usual manners.

I iind' that the double-sided suture BC extends below the top'of the ordinary low shoe and provides `a diversion for the inner endof the heel suture which is-pleasing to the eye. Thus there is notV only a completion of the patterned section I5, I 8 and the insertion of the-tapered insert extending completely across'v thev stocking from the instep.` tothe: sole to. make the stocking iit better,` but also af diversionary appearancev for vening sutures.

the heel suture which is properly concatenated with the leg pattern. Furthermore, there is no suture on the instep line to mar the fabric.

The fabric of Fig. II has the diamond pattern arranged in a slightly different manner. In this construction the sections Ill, Il, I3 and I4 are the same as in Fig. I. However, the two patterned sections 23 of the leg differ. They are not knit with any fabric below the direct instep line as continuing courses without any intervening sutures. In this construction the tapered ends of my insert are formed by wedges 2l each of which itself completely constitutes an extra section of the pattern. Each wedge, as heretofore, tapers to a point D at the front of the instep but is joined on the instep line to the leg patterned section 23 by a single-sided suture BD in direct extension of the double-sided heel suture AB, On the other or lower instep edge of wedge 2l, however, the 'wedge and the instep side of the foot are knit together without any intervening suture. Thus it will be observed that in both gures the wedge is united to the adjacent instep fabric of the leg above it and to the adjacent instep fabric of the foot below it, as continuing courses without any intervening suture on one side, and by a single-sided suture on the other.

As in the case of Fig. I, there is a 4gusset located just forward of the widened segment of the heel, joining the two wedges and completing the insert. In Fig. II the gusset is numbered 22. The junctures between the gusset 22 and the wedges 2l preferably are double-sided sutures BC. Instead of having a triangular wedge in this embodiment, there is a four-sided wedge. The end of the double-sided suture BC adjacent the heel, instead of being coincidental with the inner end B of the heel suture AB, is located nearer the sole. This puts the end C of the suture nearest the foot down to a Wale which is nearer the sole than the wale in the wedge which meets the inner end B of the heel suture. This suture BC illustrates another feature of this embodiment of my invention, namely, the possibility of removing the double-sided suture between the wedges and the gusset completely from the portion of the stocking visible when worn with a low shoe.

In the making of the stocking of Fig. II, the

sequence of operations is the same as Fig. I down to and including the knitting of the part l5 of that figure. Thus, the last course knit in the patterned section 20 of the leg of Fig. II extends from the point il where this section meets the narrowed section 'l of the heel to the inner end B of the heel suture and thence to the point D at the instep of the stocking. After this course has been made, the heel is knit in any customary manner. Next the wedges 2l are knit of their colored` yarn. Reciprocatory knitting commences on each side of the stocking between the inner end B of the heel suture and the end B of the gusset-wedge suture BC near the sole. This knitting is in direct course succession to the widened segment of the heel without any inter- As the reciprocatory knitting progresses, needles are added at the direct instep line BD ends of the courses on each side of the stocking and are subtracted at the lower ends where the double suture lines BC are being started. While the adding and subtracting can bear any desired numerical relation to each other, I have indicated a slower narrowing along the gusset-wedge suture B'C than the widening which is taking place in making the single-sidedV Gil suture BD. In this way the end C' of each double-sided suture between the gusset and a wedge is in a wale nearer the bottom of the stocking than the inner end B of the corresponding heely suture AB. The wedges 2| are cornpleted when the knitting reaches the line CD. The gusset 22 extending under the sole is then made. To do this the needles corresponding to the fabric between the points B on the two sides of the stocking begin to knit fabric. During this reciprocatory knitting the active segment of needles is increased gradually at each end. In this way the needles which were thrown out of action at BC in making the edge of the wedge 2! are thrown back into action progressively. This completes the double-sided suture BC. It also completes the gusset 22. 'Ihe machine then shifts to rotary knitting on all its needles, knitting integrally to the fabric on both the sole and the instep sides of the stocking. The sole, instep and toe are made in any usual manner and the stocking completed.

It will be seen that in both Figs. I and II, the sole gussets I9 and 22 are knit by reciprocatory knitting commencing at the forward edge of the heel and widening until the downward point of the wedge is reached. Wrinkles at the instep are avoided and surplus fabric is provided at the side of the ankle where needed. In both figures the pattern is extended below the direct instep line and the presence of a double-sided suture extending to the instep side of the stocking has been avoided. It will also be noted that the difference in nature of the sutures CD and BC is admirably suited to their functions. Thus, the double-sided sutures BC and B'C not only turn the wales like the single-sided instep sutures CD and CD, but also have an extra stepped relation of the stitches to allow for the angles at which the double sutures cross the wales.

It will be seen that the pattern appearance of the stocking, as well as the t, has been much improved.

I claim:

l. A circular knit stocking having a reciprocatorily knit heel, a leg and a foot, in combination with a tapered insert comprising a gusset and two wedges, the gusset extending under the stocking adjacent the forward edge of the heel and being united to the wedges by sutures, the wedges being located just below a line running directly from the inner end of the heel suture to the front of the instep, one on each side of the stocking with a point at the front of the instep, each wedge and adjacent instep fabric being knit together as continuing courses along one instep edge of said wedge without any sutures intervening between the wedge and that adjacent fabric, whereby a better fitting stocking is produced.

2. A circular knit stocking according to claim 1 in which each wedge is united to adjacent instep fabric along its other instep edge by a singlesided suture.

3. A circular knit stocking according to claim l. in which it is the instep fabric of the leg that is knit without any sutures between it and the wedge, whereby there is no direct suture line in the fabric from the front of the instep to the inner end of the heel suture to mar the appearance of the instep.

4. A circular knit stocking according to claim 1 in which the heel has narrowed and widened segments joined by a heel suture on each side of the stocking, the sutures between the wedges and f aannam the gusset joining the inner ends ofthe heelv suture together.

5. A circular knit stocking according to claim 4 in which the'sutures joining the wedges and the gusset are inclined toward thetoe from the direct instep line and there is a single-sidedsuture between each wedge and the foot joining the instep to the wedge-gusset suture, whereby extra fabric is inserted all across the stocking'to the instep without the presence of a suture at .v the instep line.

6. A circular knit stocking according to claim 1 in 'which the leg contains a plurality of diagonal patterned sections having downwardly-directed l points and' each wedge contains a downwardlydirected point to the side of the front ofthe instep and below the direct instep line, whereby the pattern of the leg is extended below the direct instep line.

7. A circular knit stocking according to claim 1` in which the gusset and, the wedges contain terned section below the dh ect instep line is added to the pattern.

9. A circular knit stocking according to claim 8 in which the sutures between the gussetY and the wedges are double-sided. ones but do not eX- tend up to the inner ends or the heel sutures, whereby no double-sided suture on the instep oi the stocking will show above a low shoe.

10. A method of making a patterned, circular knit stockingI comprising the step of making a leg by reciprocatory knitting on varied groups of needles until the heel line and the direct instep line are reached, in combination with the steps of knitting ref-ipi'ccatorily a heel and a tapered insert extending around the stocking, atA least part of the insert being knit after the heel, then knitting a foot to the insert by rotary knitting; the knitting of the instep portion of the insert including the connection to the fabric along one instep edge ci the insert without any suture by means of knitting continuing courses, and the connection to the fabric on the other instep edge by knitting on varied groups of needles to produce a single-sided suture.

l1. A method of making a patterned, circular knit stocking Vaccording to claim 10 in which before the heel is made a triangular wedge is knit as continuingV courses without any sutures intervening between it and the leg at the instep portion oi the insert, whereby part of the pattern of the leg extends below the direct instep line.

12. A circular knit stocking having a heel with narrowed and widened segments with a doublesided suture therebetween, a leg, a foot, an insert between the foot and the leg and heel com- `'8 prising` a taperedv wedge of' fabric onY each side of the'stocking located between the foot and the leg and-knitv to one of those two pieces of fabric as continuing courses without any sutures intervening between the wedge and that piece of fabric, and knit to the other of those two pieces of fabric by a single-sided suture, in combination with a gusset extending around the sole side of the stocking forward of the heel, composed of a number of courses equal to the maximum number of courses in each tapered wedge and.' joined to the tapered wedge on each side of the stocking by a double-sided suture.

13. A- circular knit stocking having a heel with narrowed and widenedv segments with a suture therebetween, a leg, a foot, and an insert between the foot and the leg and heel, said insert comprising a gusset in combination with two triangularinverted wedges, the gusset being located around the sole of the foot adjacent the heel ending in a point adjacent the foot several wales nearer the instep than the narrowed and widened heel, one ofthe wedges being located on each side of the instep below the direct instep line with a point at the instep, each wedge and adjacent instep fabric in the leg being knit together as continuing courses along one instep edge of the wedge without any sutures intervening between the wedge and the fabric above the direct instep line, eachv wedge coming to a downwardly-directed point below said line, and each wedge being joined to one of the tapered ends of the gusset.

14. A circular knit stocking having a seamless knit narrowed and widened heel, a foot, a leg composed of diagonal patterned sections, a suture in the heel and a reciprocatoriiy knit gusset located between the heel and the foot and eX- tending completely aroundthe sole of the stocking, in combination with two triangulai'shaped pieces of fabric, one on each side of the iront of the stocking knit as continuing courses without any sutures intervening between it and adjacent instep fabric along one side of the triangle, each suchl piece having one point adjacent the inner end of the heel suture on its side of the stocking, another point at themiddle of the instep,

and a third point below a line adjoining the rst two points', the sole gusset being connected to one side of each triangular piece by a doublesided suture, whereby a stocking with patterned sections both above and below the instep line is produced.

JOHN M. ALLEN.

References Cited in they file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 

